Signs the problem is in your main line
The water meter moves when everything is off
Turn off every faucet and appliance, then look at the meter at the curb. If the small leak indicator is still spinning, water is escaping somewhere between the meter and the fixtures.
A wet or sunken patch in the front yard
In gravel and desert landscaping a leak can hide for a long time. A spot that stays damp, grows weeds faster or sinks is worth checking.
Pressure that drops when two things run at once
If the shower weakens every time someone starts the washer, the supply line may be undersized, scaled up with minerals, or leaking.
Banging pipes or a toilet that keeps refilling
Very high pressure makes valves and toilet fill valves work harder than they should, which leads to noise and early failures.
Water pressure and the pressure regulator
Many Las Vegas homes have a pressure regulating valve, usually near where the main line enters the house or at the front hose bib. It lowers the city's supply pressure to a level your fixtures can live with. When it wears out, pressure can creep up and stress every valve in the house.
A plumber can put a gauge on a hose bib and tell you in a minute whether your pressure is in a safe range. Replacing a failing regulator is a much smaller job than replacing the fixtures it would otherwise wear out.
Repipe options at a glance
| PEX | Copper | |
|---|---|---|
| How it's installed | Flexible lines, fewer fittings, easier to route through walls and attics | Rigid pipe with soldered joints, more openings in walls |
| With hard water | Doesn't build scale the same way metal pipe can | Long track record, but minerals and pinhole leaks are a known issue in some homes |
| Typical disruption | Usually less drywall to open and patch | Usually more access holes |
| Best fit | Most whole-house repipes in occupied homes | Owners who prefer metal, or partial repairs on an existing copper system |
Older homes and polybutylene
Some homes built roughly from the late 1970s to the mid 1990s were plumbed with polybutylene, a gray plastic pipe that is known to fail at its fittings. If you see gray plastic lines at the water heater or under sinks, it's worth getting an opinion before a fitting lets go.
Repiping is a planned project, not an emergency, as long as nothing is leaking yet. That gives you time to compare options and schedule the work around your household.
How a main line or repipe job usually goes
- Test: pressure reading, meter test and a look at the visible pipe.
- Locate: find the leak or map the route the new lines will take.
- Quote: a written scope that says what gets opened, what gets replaced and what gets restored.
- Do the work: a permit is pulled where one is required, and water is off for as little time as possible.
- Restore: trenches backfilled, landscaping put back, and wall openings closed so they're ready for paint.
Request a quote
Tell us what's going on and a plumber will call you back.
Common questions
How can I check for a main line leak myself?
Turn off all water inside and outside, then watch the water meter for a few minutes. If the leak indicator moves, water is going somewhere. A plumber can then narrow down whether it's the main line, an irrigation line or a fixture.
How long does a whole-house repipe take?
It depends on the size of the home and how the lines are routed. Most single-family repipes are planned so the household has water each evening.
Do I need a permit?
Main line replacements and repipes usually require a permit. The plumber handles it as part of the job.
What does a pressure regulator do?
It lowers incoming city pressure to a safer level for your fixtures and appliances. When it fails, pressure can climb high enough to damage valves and supply lines.